Nape Breakage?

For some people the nape hair grows just fine. For others, the nape area suffers constant breakage, stunted growth, and is the most fragile section of the scalp.

Before 2007, my nape hair never surpassed two to three inches (except for during my childhood years). It was severely damaged from overprocessing and dryness and would seem to break the instant it was touched. In 2007, I began to seriously address my nape breakage by stretching the period between chemical relaxers and paying extra attention to the area as I conditioned and moisturized (i.e., extra TLC). With these changes and more, my nape hair was gradually restored to good health. Nowadays, it has reached a length I never imagined it could. (In 2008, I officially went natural, but that isn't to say that one needs to do so to have a healthy growing nape.)

Do you have nape growth issues? If so, any of the following could be the source of the problem. Eliminate that source and your nape hair will be restored to good health and growth.

Causes of stunted/slow growth of nape hair:
*poor internal health
*dryness
*under conditioned
*breakage from tight headbands, scarves, etc.
*over-brushing
*over-processing (raise your hand if you relax that section first)
*friction from shirt, scarf, coat, couch
*too much tension (e.g., braiding nape hair too tightly)
*inadequate neutralization after relaxing
*heat damage from trying to get that nape hair straight
*sleeping on the back of head

Reader's Question: Hair Knots ... Be Gone!

Post inspired by a reader! Thank you for your questions. Post on "When You Get a Knot" coming soon.

Single-strand knots. Double-strand knots. Multiple-strand knots. Be gone!

The truth of the matter is that for many naturals, hair knots are inevitable. We can have a solid hair care regimen, yet they always appear. This is because our curls, coils, and kinks form an environment conducive to tangling and knotting.

Though hair knots cannot be prevented altogether, the frequency of their occurrence can be minimized. Here are 5 tips I have read about and used to reduce the formation of the natural's nightmare - the knot:

1. Protective style - This is the number one most useful tip, and it makes perfect sense. When is a piece of yarn most prone to tangling - when it is in a perfect ball or when it is loose? The answer is the latter, and the same goes for our hair. Twists and braids are probably the most useful protective styles for minimizing knot formation. (If you are one those naturals who still gets knots while in twists, you may want to try braids instead.)

2. Detangle regularly - Hair that is allowed to stay tangled is more likely to knot. Additionally, shed hair that is allowed to accumulate becomes hair that is just waiting to wrap itself around another. Detangling removes tangles and shed hair, thus reducing knot formation.

3. Wash in sections - For some of us, washing the hair loose is just asking for knot city! I recommend washing and conditioning in sections -- particularly in braids or twists -- to reduce tangling and knot formation.

4. Stretched loose style / No wash-n-gos - Straight hair rarely, if ever, knots onto itself. But wait! I am not suggesting that your options are limited to using a flat iron or relaxer kit to reduce knots. Naturals can wear rollersets, twistouts, braidouts, or other stretched styles that temporarily and healthily elongate the curl pattern. Minimize or stay away from wash-n-gos altogether. Caveat: Once a stretched style starts to shrink, the loose hair can be prone to tangling. Try to save stretched styles for non-humid days.

5. Moisturize, moisturize - Some naturals swear by this method for knot reduction. Hair strands that are dry will experience more friction and join into knots. Hair strands that are well moisturized will slide past each other and have a harder time tangling together.  Don't forget to seal with an oil/butter to not only lock in the moisture but to add more slip between hair strands.

Chlorine and Summer Hair

Strands can become dry and brittle after long exposure to chlorinated water. Aside from the sun, don't let the pool ruin your tresses this summer. Before jumping in, protect your hair with one or more of the following methods:

* Wet hair with tap or distilled water
Because the strands have been filled with water, chlorinated water is less able to penetrate them.
* Apply conditioner to hair (an inexpensive one will do)
Conditioners can form a barrier between chlorinated water and the hair.
* Wear a swimcap
Prevents chlorinated water from reaching the hair. You can also use certain oils or butters instead.

After you've enjoyed your swim for the summer day, be sure to:
* Rinse and condition your hair

OR

If chlorinated water did interact with your strands:
* Wash your hair with a shampoo (e.g., chelating, certain clarifiers) designed to remove chlorine
* Follow up with a deep conditioner

Enjoy your summer!

SOURCES & OTHER READS:
PROTECTING HAIR FROM CHLORINE DAMAGE
HOW CHLORINE AFFECTS OUR HAIR

Hair and Sun Damage

Summer arrives. Your hair color gets lighter. Your strands feel weak and brittle. If you notice any of these transformations in the season of sun, then you might be experiencing ultraviolet (UV) damage. Protecting your hair from excessive sun exposure is an important component to maintaining healthy hair.

THE FINDINGS:
*UVB radiation affects the cuticle and is responsible for protein (particularly keratin) breakdown in the hair
*UVA radiation penetrates to the cortex and is responsible for melanin degradation, or hair color changes
*Sun exposure can lead to color fading in those with color treatments, including semi-permanent through permanent
*UV rays are also attributed with "speeding up the aging and thinning process in hair follicles"
*UV radiation "affects hair lipids, making photodamaged hair dull and dry"
*Sun exposure can cause "dryness, reduced strength, rough surface texture, decreased luster, stiffness and brittleness of the hair"
*A yellowish tone to the hair may indicate sun damage
*Gray hair is more susceptible to sun damage since it contains less melanin -- a natural filter of UV radiation

LOO's HYPOTHESES:
*Bleached or lightened hair may be more susceptible to sun damage since melanin -- a natural filter of UV radiation -- has been previously removed
*Vaseline (petrolatum) has been shown to increase the penetration of UV rays into the skin -- this may or may not have an implication to hair; If it does, application of products containing petrolatum (and perhaps mineral oil) should be avoided on the hair

PROTECTION:
*UV filters are the first defense line because they reflect/filter the UV rays
*Antioxidants are the second defense line because they reduce the damage process (by reducing the amount of free radicals generated in the hair)
*Apply hair products containing UV filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide or benzophene photo filters *Look for hair products containing sunscreen (beware of marketing ploys)
* BEST PROTECTION: Wear hats that cover the hair entirely when in long-term sun exposure, or sit under an umbrella. (Wearing scarves may work as well depending on the type of material, thickness, etc.)
*Simply stay in the shade
*Natural oils as UV filters: coffee bean oil
*Natural oils as antioxidants: vitamin E oil

Enjoy your summer! Chlorine and hair talk coming later.


SOURCES:
UV FILTERS IN HAIR CARE
UV DAMAGE
HAIR & UV PROTECTION
HAIR DAMAGE
COFFEE BEAN OIL & UV
VITAMIN E & UV
COLOR TREATED HAIR & UV
GRAY HAIR & UV
VASELINE & UV