Nape Breakage?

For some people the nape hair grows just fine. For others, the nape area suffers constant breakage, stunted growth, and is the most fragile section of the scalp.

Before 2007, my nape hair never surpassed two to three inches (except for during my childhood years). It was severely damaged from overprocessing and dryness and would seem to break the instant it was touched. In 2007, I began to seriously address my nape breakage by stretching the period between chemical relaxers and paying extra attention to the area as I conditioned and moisturized (i.e., extra TLC). With these changes and more, my nape hair was gradually restored to good health. Nowadays, it has reached a length I never imagined it could. (In 2008, I officially went natural, but that isn't to say that one needs to do so to have a healthy growing nape.)

Do you have nape growth issues? If so, any of the following could be the source of the problem. Eliminate that source and your nape hair will be restored to good health and growth.

Causes of stunted/slow growth of nape hair:
*poor internal health
*dryness
*under conditioned
*breakage from tight headbands, scarves, etc.
*over-brushing
*over-processing (raise your hand if you relax that section first)
*friction from shirt, scarf, coat, couch
*too much tension (e.g., braiding nape hair too tightly)
*inadequate neutralization after relaxing
*heat damage from trying to get that nape hair straight
*sleeping on the back of head

Micro Twist Takedown on CNapp Hair

PHOTO: (L) Putting in twists, (R) After 4 weeks

So, as some of you probably already know, I've been wearing my real hair in micro twists for 4 weeks.

This weekend is takedown time!

Here's the GAME PLAN:

*Soak my twists with unrefined shea butter whipped with coconut oil + olive oil + etc.
Because my hair loves to shrink and has super tiny coils that coil upon themselves, wetting my twists with conditioner or water for the takedown process is a big no-no. Whipped shea butter lubricates my strands while allowing my hair to remain stretched. Applying this mixture will also act as a "prepoo" before my wash.

*Take down a twist & finger detangle
After I take down a twist, I finger detangle to remove shed hair, lint, etc. This will make the washing and comb detangling much easier.

*Put loose hair in 10-15 big twists, then clarify
Washing my hair in a loose state (especially after a micro twist takedown) is just asking for trouble. Loose hair that loves to shrink + loves to coil upon itself = tangles and knots when wet. I use 10-15 twists (as opposed to, say 5-10) because my hair is really dense. It also makes the detangling process more efficient.

*Deep condition, then comb detangle each twist
I need a thick deep conditioner to temporarily loosen my tight and tiny coils, provide hang, and coat my dense strands for detangling. For my hair, conditioners containing cholesterol and an oil are ideal. (I like to mix Lustrasilk cholesterol with olive oil.) After the conditioner sits for about an hour, comb detangling will remove whatever shed hair and tangles the finger detangling missed. I use a wide tooth comb first, and then the D3 (Denman) if necessary. (If you have hair like mine, never use the D3 on undetangled tresses.)

*Thoroughly rinse, then "seal", and airdry in the big twists
I "seal," or lock, the water into my strands by applying the whipped shea butter mixture. Then I airdry my hair in a stretched state to minimize shrinkage and knotting.

*Style once dry!
Styling my hair after it's airdried and stretched is a preference. It allows me to show more length and have a neater, longer-lasting style. It's also easier.

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FOR INFO ON MAINTAINING CNAPP HAIR

Boar Brush = Damage to Your Edges?

I was on youtube some months ago when I came across a number of educational videos by a popular trichologist. One video, in particular, addressed the harmful tools we use on our hair versus healthier options. I was already aware of some of the tools that were discussed, but one surprise was that a soft boar brush -- a tool many of us swear by -- is more detrimental to the edges than a rattail comb. A surprise, but well reasoned. Just ask yourself, would you rather move bristles across sensitive skin ... or would you rather move a smooth object? Check out the video link below to see what I mean. After watching the trichologist's demonstration, I gradually weened myself off my beloved boar bristle brush.

**From her video, I'd also infer that the Denman brush is more gentle on the edges than a boar brush.

VIDEO ON HAIR TOOLS

Basic Regimen & Products for HEALTHY Natural Hair

Post inspired by a reader. Thank you for your questions, and I hope this can answer some of them.

Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?

One and half years ago, I went natural and had the same question. My years of using a relaxer could not prepare me for what was about to come. My chemically straightened hair was accustomed to products that my newly natural hair now despised. My hair care regimen also had to radically change. I went through a year of trial and error before I finally "figured it out". During that process, I determined the following basics which I hope can be a good start for newbie naturals. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak the "basics":


*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY
A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your hair is 5 inches or longer, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.
Choosing a shampoo: It is important to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. I generally gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safe side.
Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Chagrin Valley Shampoo Bar, Desert Essence Shampoos

*DEEP CONDITION AFTER EACH WASH
Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and/or smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a shower cap and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 20 minutes before rinsing.
Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains moisturizing ingredients, such oils (e.g., olive, coconut), fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol) and humectants (e.g., glycerin).  The particular ingredient depends on what your hair likes.  I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and weight, both of which ease the detangling process. Deep conditioners like this usually contain heavy oils and fatty alcohols, like listed above.
Product recommendations for moisture & slip: Suave Coconut conditioner (mixed with olive/coconut oil); Aubrey Organics HoneySuckle Rose conditioner
Product recommendations for moisture, slip, & weight: Lekair/LustraSilk Cholesterol (add olive oil for more moisture); Avocado detangling conditioner (recipe here)

*DETANGLE WITH EACH DEEP CONDITION
Our curls, coils, and kinks like to tangle upon themselves, so detangling regularly is a necessity for many naturals. If you have thick strands, I highly recommend detangling conditioner-soaked hair and with a wide tooth comb. Take down a braided section, detangle, and rebraid the section. Then rinse out the conditioner.  However, if you have fine strands, you may fair better with finger detangling on dry, lubricated hair.

*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED
Water is the best moisturizer out there for natural hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on rinse and then re-seal. Another option is using a water-based spritz.
Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).
Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant), Kinky Curly Curling Custard
Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.
Product recommendations: Homemade whipped butter (recipes here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine

TWIST OR BRAID YOUR HAIR & VOILA!
Wear the twists/braids (great protective style!) until your next wash or unleash for a twistout. (See twistout instructions here.) Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep. Other styles for natural hair - protective and low manipulation - can be found here.

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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:

*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:
If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner out, seal and style.
Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly.  Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.
Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea

*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:

For more on prepooing, check this post.

*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:
If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.
Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo; Baking Soda and water mix followed by Apple Cider Vinegar rinse

**INTERNAL HEALTH:
If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 5

It is no secret (I hope) that excessive manipulation of the hair can lead to breakage. This includes excessive combing. (For studies on combing and hair damage, see below.) A big part of retaining length involves minimizing hair breakage, and one way to do this is to develop a minimal/no combing routine.

Now for the questions: How do you detangle your without a comb? How do you keep your hair groomed within the week? How do you minimize/eliminate comb usage altogether? Well, here are some strategies ...

1. WEAR PROTECTIVE STYLES
Wear styles that require no manipulation and protect the ends of the hair. Examples of such styles, include buns, twists, braids, updos, bantu knots, cornrows, sew-ins, wigs, etc.

2. WEAR LOW-MANIPULATION STYLES
Wear styles that require little manipulation. Examples of such styles, include ponytails, strawsets, twistouts, braidouts, bantu knotouts, rollersets, etc.

3. USE YOUR FINGERS TO STYLE
Freshen up certain hairstyles with your fingers instead of running for the comb. Rollersets, braidouts, and twistouts can be fluffed with the fingers. If you are either really skilled or do not care about the parting, your fingers can be used to make sections for braids and twists.

4. USE YOUR FINGERS TO DETANGLE
When taking down braids or twists, your fingers may be sufficient detangling tools. There are some cases in which the comb will be needed, but starting off with your fingers will help to reduce breakage from combing.

5. WASH IN TWISTS/BRAIDS
This step will minimize tangling thus minimizing the need for a comb.


For some of us, the comb cannot be avoided entirely, so here are some tips to minimize damage when it is used:

1. OPT FOR A WIDE TOOTH COMB
Wide tooth combs are by far less destructive than thin tooth combs, rattail combs, and brushes. Their bigger teeth are less likely to damage the cuticles and break the hair.

2. MOISTURIZE, PROTECT, & LUBRICATE THE HAIR BEFORE COMBING
Combing dry hair is asking for trouble, in my opinion. At the very least, ensure that the hair is moisturized. Moisturized hair equals soft, pliable hair that is able to withstand combing. When it comes to detangling, it is encouraged to do so on damp hair (not too wet, not too dry) that is protected and lubricated with conditioner. Not just any conditioner will do; use one that has ingredients that -- let me say this again --protect and lubricate the hair. What are some examples of conditioners that do this? Deep conditioners containing protein and oil (e.g., protein conditioner or egg mixed with extra virgin olive oil), coconut oil and cholesterol (e.g., coconut oil mixed with LustraSilk), or protein and cholesterol (e.g., egg mixed LustraSilk, LeKair). Protection comes from coconut oil or protein; lubrication comes from oil, cholesterol, or both. Cholesterol can also weigh the hair down, thus stretching the curl pattern temporarily; this is an added benefit for those with natural hair since it eases the detangling process. Allow whatever deep conditioner you use to penetrate and soften the hair for at least 20 minutes prior to combing.

3. BE PATIENT
Impatience while combing can lead to breakage or ripping the hair out from the roots.

4. START COMBING FROM THE ENDS
.. then the middle, then the roots.

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MY MINIMAL/NO COMBING ROUTINE:
(I only comb 1x a month or couple of months. The routine was derived from a popular member on a natural hair care forum.)  07/12/2010 UPDATE: This routine was while my hair was short/medium length. As it's gotten longer, I've gradually increased the combing to 1-2x a month.


*ALTERNATE BETWEEN TWISTS & TWISTOUTS:
Twists, twists, and more twists. I move directly from one twist style to another using my fingers alone. If I feel like wearing a loose style, I move from twists to a twistout. I wear the twistout for a few days and then go back to twists using my fingers alone. No comb. As I move into a new set of twists, I am sure to remove shed hair and detangle with my fingers.

*WASH IN TWISTS:
I usually wash my hair in its current twist style. Doing this minimizes tangling of the strands. Once my hair is done airdrying, I either wear the twists for some days, redo them, or undo the twists for a twistout. I try not to wash my hair loose.

*WASH GENTLY:
When washing in my twist style, I try not to manipulate the roots too much. Doing so will cause premature matting.

*WEAR LOOSE HAIR FOR SHORT PERIOD:
I try not to wear a twistout for too long. My max duration is somewhere between 2-4 days before tangling starts to occur. When my hair was shorter, I was able to get away with 5-7 days.



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ABSTRACTS ON BLACK HAIR & COMBING DAMAGE:
African hair length: the picture is clearer.
What is normal black African hair? A light and scanning electron-microscopic study.
African hair length in a school population: a clue to disease pathogenesis?
Apparent fragility of African hair is unrelated to the cystine-rich protein distribution: a cytochemical electron microscopic study.

ABSTRACTS ON HAIR BREAKAGE & COMBING:
Hair breakage during combing. III. The effects of bleaching and conditioning on short and long segment breakage by wet and dry combing of tresses.
Hair breakage during combing. IV. Brushing and combing hair.
Hair breakage during combing. I. Pathways of breakage.

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 2

Let's talk about chemical damage ...

WHAT IS IT?:
In general, chemical damage of the hair can result from the misuse of chemical treatments, such as relaxers and certain color dyes. Relaxers are designed to straighten the hair by breaking and rearranging bonds in the hair shaft. Misuse of relaxers involves overprocessing (leaving the chemical on the hair for too long), overlapping (applying the chemical to previously relaxed sections), inadequate neutralization of the relaxer, etc. Chemical color treatments -- particularly permanent ones -- lift the cuticle and interact with the cortex of the hair to alter the natural pigment. Misuse of color treatments involves overprocessing and other improper application procedures. Chemical damage leaves the hair severely weakened and irreparable. The damaged part must grow out or be cut.

MINIMIZING COLOR DAMAGE:
*Natural dyes: A sure fire way to prevent chemical damage is to use natural alternatives to chemical treatments. Henna, lemon, honey, cinnamon, and chamomile tea can all be used as natural dyes. Another option is to use plant-based hair dyes on the market, some of which boast salon-quality results. One thing to note: the darker the hair, the subtler the result with natural dyes meant to lighten. Sometimes multiple applications may be required to achieve your desired color. (Please read article links below.)
*Rinses: Rinses are temporary dyes that deposit color onto your hair. They are ideal for those wanting to deepen, rather than lighten, their natural color. The color disappears after a few washes.
*Semi- and Demi -permanent: Semi-permanent colors contain no ammonia and last for a few washes. Demi-permanent colors also contain no ammonia and but slightly lift the cuticle to deposit color. Thus, they last much longer than semi-permanents. The potential for chemical damage with these options is less than with a permanent color.



MINIMIZING RELAXER DAMAGE:
*Stay/go natural: Avoidance of relaxers is the only guaranteed method of preventing relaxer damage. Rollersets or flat ironing the natural hair on a safe heat setting are ways to achieve a temporary straight look.
*Texlaxing/texturizing: This process involves relaxing the hair just enough to loosen the natural curl pattern. The chemical is left on the hair for a shorter period of time than specified so that the hair is not relaxed to full straightness. Thus, this method minimizes the possibility of relaxer damage.
*Jojoba oil, wax, & relaxers: According to one study, most conditioning agents in relaxer kits break down and have no effect by the time the consumer uses them. This finding implies that using some level of added conditioning while relaxing may minimize damage. What is the best conditioner? According to a second study, jojoba oil is amongst the best at protecting the hair while relaxing (with thioglycolate-based relaxers). Polymethylene wax (in conjunction with other substances) is beneficial for the traditional NaOH- and LiOH-based relaxers.
*Don't Overlap or Overprocess: Follow the instructions.

Ultimately, the best way to prevent chemical damage is to avoid chemical treatments altogether. I've only presented a few options so if you do your research you may find more. If you can't avoid chemicals, then merely practice the proper use of them. Follow the application instructions to the tee or seek a professional. It is possible to have healthy colored, straightened hair with or without the use of chemical treatments.

SOURCES & MORE READS:
CHEMICAL DAMAGE & MORE
CONDITIONER BREAKDOWN IN RELAXERS & POLYMETHYLENE WAX
JOJOBA OIL & RELAXERS
BLEACH DAMAGE
CHEMICAL STRAIGHTENING
NATURAL DYE RECIPES
NATURAL DYE INGREDIENTS
HOW HAIR COLORING WORKS
COLOR TREATMENT FACTS
DEMI, SEMI, & PERMANENT COLORS

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 1

What is included in this series is gathered from my personal experience, internet research, and tips from those who've retained what they've grown. Please do your own research as well. Thank you.


Are you having trouble with length retention? If so (assuming you are a healthy individual) constant trims and/or breakage may be the culprit. It is that simple. The difficulty, however, is minimizing trims ... and more so, minimizing breakage.

REASONS FOR TRIMMING: Desiring an even length, eliminating split ends, removing color treated ends, removing damaged ends, etc.

REASONS FOR SPLITS: Dryness, over manipulation, chemical damage, mechanical damage, weathering, etc.

REASONS FOR BREAKAGE: Dryness, over manipulation, chemical damage, mechanical damage, etc.

So what steps can one take to minimize trims and breakage ... and thus retain length? Attack the problem: dryness, over manipulation, chemical damage, and mechanical damage. More on chemical damage another time. In the time being, here are steps to address the other areas. Feel free to add them to your hair care regimen:


* PUT YOUR HAIR AWAY: Aim for a majority protective-style (styles that protect the ends of your hair) routine. Some of these styles include: braids, twists, buns, wigs, weaves, etc. Be sure that these styles are not done too tightly. Also be sure to allow breaks between styles. For wigs, it is best to stay away from drying wig caps (such as cotton).

* SIMPLE, BASIC REGIMEN - In a nutshell, keep it simple. Cleanse, condition, and moisturize. How you do these three steps is your choice, but keep it simple. A simple, basic regimen also means no over using relaxer and color applications. Simple = low manipulation.

* ELIMINATE EXCESSIVE HEAT - Stay away from direct heat altogether, or at the very least, minimize its usage. Direct heat includes flat-irons, blow dryers, pressing combs, etc. Opt for indirect heat or airdrying instead. Go for a roller set under a hooded dryer instead of blow drying and flat ironing. Airdry in chunky braids and unleash your fro instead of blow drying for that stretched fro.

* MINIMIZE COMBING / BRUSHING - Less combing equals less breakage. Use your fingers in place of your comb (or brush) as much as you can. I currently comb my hair 1x every few months.

* PUT THE SCISSORS DOWN - Turn to dusting or search & destroy instead of regular trimming. Trim 1x every 6 months as opposed to every 1-2 months. Trim ONLY when you have to. With the steps above, you may be able to prolong the period between your trimming sessions.

ADDITIONAL TIPS:
* USE COCONUT OIL - Extra virgin coconut oil has been shown to strengthen the hair and reduce breakage. It is best to apply this oil to your hair prior to manipulation.

Sources:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12715094
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11413497
http://www.hairloss-research.org/UpdateTopicalCoconutOil5-08.html

For tips on dusting and search & destroy:
http://www.long-healthy-hair-advisor.com/trim-your-own-hair.html