Micro Twist Takedown on CNapp Hair

PHOTO: (L) Putting in twists, (R) After 4 weeks

So, as some of you probably already know, I've been wearing my real hair in micro twists for 4 weeks.

This weekend is takedown time!

Here's the GAME PLAN:

*Soak my twists with unrefined shea butter whipped with coconut oil + olive oil + etc.
Because my hair loves to shrink and has super tiny coils that coil upon themselves, wetting my twists with conditioner or water for the takedown process is a big no-no. Whipped shea butter lubricates my strands while allowing my hair to remain stretched. Applying this mixture will also act as a "prepoo" before my wash.

*Take down a twist & finger detangle
After I take down a twist, I finger detangle to remove shed hair, lint, etc. This will make the washing and comb detangling much easier.

*Put loose hair in 10-15 big twists, then clarify
Washing my hair in a loose state (especially after a micro twist takedown) is just asking for trouble. Loose hair that loves to shrink + loves to coil upon itself = tangles and knots when wet. I use 10-15 twists (as opposed to, say 5-10) because my hair is really dense. It also makes the detangling process more efficient.

*Deep condition, then comb detangle each twist
I need a thick deep conditioner to temporarily loosen my tight and tiny coils, provide hang, and coat my dense strands for detangling. For my hair, conditioners containing cholesterol and an oil are ideal. (I like to mix Lustrasilk cholesterol with olive oil.) After the conditioner sits for about an hour, comb detangling will remove whatever shed hair and tangles the finger detangling missed. I use a wide tooth comb first, and then the D3 (Denman) if necessary. (If you have hair like mine, never use the D3 on undetangled tresses.)

*Thoroughly rinse, then "seal", and airdry in the big twists
I "seal," or lock, the water into my strands by applying the whipped shea butter mixture. Then I airdry my hair in a stretched state to minimize shrinkage and knotting.

*Style once dry!
Styling my hair after it's airdried and stretched is a preference. It allows me to show more length and have a neater, longer-lasting style. It's also easier.

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FOR INFO ON MAINTAINING CNAPP HAIR

Intermission: Hair & Attitude

A short break from the usual blog topics ...

When I wear my hair loose, which is rare, it is big, kinky, and ... foreign. I have had the occasional stranger's hand in my fro. I have had people approach me with the first sentences out of their mouth concerning my hair. "How do you do that?" "Do you plan to loc?" Etc. Last Friday, I got my first "I approached you because your natural hair attracted me" from a male. The reactions do not bother me, though, and I actually find it entertaining especially since the reason I went natural was to achieve healthy hair and not to make a statement. Though many black women are transitioning to natural today, the look of natural is still foreign to some.

My sister emailed me an interesting article with audios from nine women -- natural, weaved, straightened, loced, etc. -- about attitudes surrounding their hair. A related article is also included touching upon black hair and politics. Here is a synopsis followed by a link to the read:

"When it comes to straightening hair or letting it be natural, the choice still pushes deep emotional buttons for many African-American women. Others ask, why can't hair just be hair? Nine black women discuss their hairstyles and the attitudes surrounding their hair..."

http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/08/27/fashion/20090827-hair-interactive.html


Care to share your experiences?

Healthy Hairstyling #4: Twists

The two-strand twist. A protective style that can be done on natural or chemically straightened hair. A style that is relatively easy and quick to do. A style that protects the strands by minimizing tangles and locking in moisture. A style that helps many to retain length.

YOUTUBE CHANNEL INSPIRATION #1:
This lady wears twists for up to two weeks and a twistout the following week. Her routine has visibly contributed to her long, healthy tresses. Every now and then, she switches up her style with a sleek, straight do, a puff, etc. Her channel includes twist and twistout tutorials, explanation of her hair care routine, healthy hair tips, style experiments, and more:
Rusticbeauty

YOUTUBE CHANNEL INSPIRATION #2:
If you are uncomfortable wearing twists with your current hair length or simply just prefer the look of kinky twists, this lady may be an inspiration to you. She has achieved healthy, long hair through a kinky twist do-it-yourself (DIY) routine. She wears the style for a few months with breaks in between in which she wears intricate puffs, simple two-strand twists, ... you name it ... on her real hair. Her channel includes a kinky twist tutorial, explanation of her hair care routine, healthy eating and exercise tips, and more: BeautifulBrwnBabyDol

Twists can be done on wet or dry hair depending on the look you want achieve or other preferences. Twists done on wet natural hair are generally thicker, shrunken, and less likely to unravel while those done on dry, stretched hair are sleeker, thinner, and longer.

Twists can also be done as large or small as you want them to be. Smaller twists tend to last longer, lock faster, take longer to do and remove, and yield more defined twistouts. Larger twists tend to be faster to achieve and unravel, look more scalpy on certain heads, minimize knotting of the ends for certain hair types, etc.

Twists on chemically straightened hair is feasible. Apply a butter, gel, and/or setting lotion to the ends of your hair while twisting. (Naturals may benefit from the application of these products as well.) Then place a perm rod on the end of each twist, allow to dry, and then remove the perm rods. This process will prevent the twists from unravelling.

Twists are not for everyone. Some naturals do experience knotting and tangling of the ends with twists. A few options to overcome this dilemma include:

*twist on dry, stretched hair (stretched hair is less likely to knot/tangle),
*get a trim (a few scragglers can cause tangles),
*put perm rods on the ends of your twists (this stretches the ends),
*braid the ends of your twists (this keeps the ends intact), or
*opt for kinky or senegalese twist extensions.

If none of these options work, braiding the hair instead of twisting it may be your best bet.

Reader's Question: Hair Knots ... Be Gone!

Post inspired by a reader! Thank you for your questions. Post on "When You Get a Knot" coming soon.

Single-strand knots. Double-strand knots. Multiple-strand knots. Be gone!

The truth of the matter is that for many naturals, hair knots are inevitable. We can have a solid hair care regimen, yet they always appear. This is because our curls, coils, and kinks form an environment conducive to tangling and knotting.

Though hair knots cannot be prevented altogether, the frequency of their occurrence can be minimized. Here are 5 tips I have read about and used to reduce the formation of the natural's nightmare - the knot:

1. Protective style - This is the number one most useful tip, and it makes perfect sense. When is a piece of yarn most prone to tangling - when it is in a perfect ball or when it is loose? The answer is the latter, and the same goes for our hair. Twists and braids are probably the most useful protective styles for minimizing knot formation. (If you are one those naturals who still gets knots while in twists, you may want to try braids instead.)

2. Detangle regularly - Hair that is allowed to stay tangled is more likely to knot. Additionally, shed hair that is allowed to accumulate becomes hair that is just waiting to wrap itself around another. Detangling removes tangles and shed hair, thus reducing knot formation.

3. Wash in sections - For some of us, washing the hair loose is just asking for knot city! I recommend washing and conditioning in sections -- particularly in braids or twists -- to reduce tangling and knot formation.

4. Stretched loose style / No wash-n-gos - Straight hair rarely, if ever, knots onto itself. But wait! I am not suggesting that your options are limited to using a flat iron or relaxer kit to reduce knots. Naturals can wear rollersets, twistouts, braidouts, or other stretched styles that temporarily and healthily elongate the curl pattern. Minimize or stay away from wash-n-gos altogether. Caveat: Once a stretched style starts to shrink, the loose hair can be prone to tangling. Try to save stretched styles for non-humid days.

5. Moisturize, moisturize - Some naturals swear by this method for knot reduction. Hair strands that are dry will experience more friction and join into knots. Hair strands that are well moisturized will slide past each other and have a harder time tangling together.  Don't forget to seal with an oil/butter to not only lock in the moisture but to add more slip between hair strands.

Basic Regimen & Products for HEALTHY Natural Hair

Post inspired by a reader. Thank you for your questions, and I hope this can answer some of them.

Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?

One and half years ago, I went natural and had the same question. My years of using a relaxer could not prepare me for what was about to come. My chemically straightened hair was accustomed to products that my newly natural hair now despised. My hair care regimen also had to radically change. I went through a year of trial and error before I finally "figured it out". During that process, I determined the following basics which I hope can be a good start for newbie naturals. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak the "basics":


*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY
A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your hair is 5 inches or longer, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.
Choosing a shampoo: It is important to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. I generally gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safe side.
Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Chagrin Valley Shampoo Bar, Desert Essence Shampoos

*DEEP CONDITION AFTER EACH WASH
Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and/or smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a shower cap and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 20 minutes before rinsing.
Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains moisturizing ingredients, such oils (e.g., olive, coconut), fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol) and humectants (e.g., glycerin).  The particular ingredient depends on what your hair likes.  I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and weight, both of which ease the detangling process. Deep conditioners like this usually contain heavy oils and fatty alcohols, like listed above.
Product recommendations for moisture & slip: Suave Coconut conditioner (mixed with olive/coconut oil); Aubrey Organics HoneySuckle Rose conditioner
Product recommendations for moisture, slip, & weight: Lekair/LustraSilk Cholesterol (add olive oil for more moisture); Avocado detangling conditioner (recipe here)

*DETANGLE WITH EACH DEEP CONDITION
Our curls, coils, and kinks like to tangle upon themselves, so detangling regularly is a necessity for many naturals. If you have thick strands, I highly recommend detangling conditioner-soaked hair and with a wide tooth comb. Take down a braided section, detangle, and rebraid the section. Then rinse out the conditioner.  However, if you have fine strands, you may fair better with finger detangling on dry, lubricated hair.

*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED
Water is the best moisturizer out there for natural hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on rinse and then re-seal. Another option is using a water-based spritz.
Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).
Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant), Kinky Curly Curling Custard
Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.
Product recommendations: Homemade whipped butter (recipes here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine

TWIST OR BRAID YOUR HAIR & VOILA!
Wear the twists/braids (great protective style!) until your next wash or unleash for a twistout. (See twistout instructions here.) Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep. Other styles for natural hair - protective and low manipulation - can be found here.

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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:

*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:
If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner out, seal and style.
Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly.  Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.
Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea

*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:

For more on prepooing, check this post.

*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:
If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.
Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo; Baking Soda and water mix followed by Apple Cider Vinegar rinse

**INTERNAL HEALTH:
If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 5

It is no secret (I hope) that excessive manipulation of the hair can lead to breakage. This includes excessive combing. (For studies on combing and hair damage, see below.) A big part of retaining length involves minimizing hair breakage, and one way to do this is to develop a minimal/no combing routine.

Now for the questions: How do you detangle your without a comb? How do you keep your hair groomed within the week? How do you minimize/eliminate comb usage altogether? Well, here are some strategies ...

1. WEAR PROTECTIVE STYLES
Wear styles that require no manipulation and protect the ends of the hair. Examples of such styles, include buns, twists, braids, updos, bantu knots, cornrows, sew-ins, wigs, etc.

2. WEAR LOW-MANIPULATION STYLES
Wear styles that require little manipulation. Examples of such styles, include ponytails, strawsets, twistouts, braidouts, bantu knotouts, rollersets, etc.

3. USE YOUR FINGERS TO STYLE
Freshen up certain hairstyles with your fingers instead of running for the comb. Rollersets, braidouts, and twistouts can be fluffed with the fingers. If you are either really skilled or do not care about the parting, your fingers can be used to make sections for braids and twists.

4. USE YOUR FINGERS TO DETANGLE
When taking down braids or twists, your fingers may be sufficient detangling tools. There are some cases in which the comb will be needed, but starting off with your fingers will help to reduce breakage from combing.

5. WASH IN TWISTS/BRAIDS
This step will minimize tangling thus minimizing the need for a comb.


For some of us, the comb cannot be avoided entirely, so here are some tips to minimize damage when it is used:

1. OPT FOR A WIDE TOOTH COMB
Wide tooth combs are by far less destructive than thin tooth combs, rattail combs, and brushes. Their bigger teeth are less likely to damage the cuticles and break the hair.

2. MOISTURIZE, PROTECT, & LUBRICATE THE HAIR BEFORE COMBING
Combing dry hair is asking for trouble, in my opinion. At the very least, ensure that the hair is moisturized. Moisturized hair equals soft, pliable hair that is able to withstand combing. When it comes to detangling, it is encouraged to do so on damp hair (not too wet, not too dry) that is protected and lubricated with conditioner. Not just any conditioner will do; use one that has ingredients that -- let me say this again --protect and lubricate the hair. What are some examples of conditioners that do this? Deep conditioners containing protein and oil (e.g., protein conditioner or egg mixed with extra virgin olive oil), coconut oil and cholesterol (e.g., coconut oil mixed with LustraSilk), or protein and cholesterol (e.g., egg mixed LustraSilk, LeKair). Protection comes from coconut oil or protein; lubrication comes from oil, cholesterol, or both. Cholesterol can also weigh the hair down, thus stretching the curl pattern temporarily; this is an added benefit for those with natural hair since it eases the detangling process. Allow whatever deep conditioner you use to penetrate and soften the hair for at least 20 minutes prior to combing.

3. BE PATIENT
Impatience while combing can lead to breakage or ripping the hair out from the roots.

4. START COMBING FROM THE ENDS
.. then the middle, then the roots.

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MY MINIMAL/NO COMBING ROUTINE:
(I only comb 1x a month or couple of months. The routine was derived from a popular member on a natural hair care forum.)  07/12/2010 UPDATE: This routine was while my hair was short/medium length. As it's gotten longer, I've gradually increased the combing to 1-2x a month.


*ALTERNATE BETWEEN TWISTS & TWISTOUTS:
Twists, twists, and more twists. I move directly from one twist style to another using my fingers alone. If I feel like wearing a loose style, I move from twists to a twistout. I wear the twistout for a few days and then go back to twists using my fingers alone. No comb. As I move into a new set of twists, I am sure to remove shed hair and detangle with my fingers.

*WASH IN TWISTS:
I usually wash my hair in its current twist style. Doing this minimizes tangling of the strands. Once my hair is done airdrying, I either wear the twists for some days, redo them, or undo the twists for a twistout. I try not to wash my hair loose.

*WASH GENTLY:
When washing in my twist style, I try not to manipulate the roots too much. Doing so will cause premature matting.

*WEAR LOOSE HAIR FOR SHORT PERIOD:
I try not to wear a twistout for too long. My max duration is somewhere between 2-4 days before tangling starts to occur. When my hair was shorter, I was able to get away with 5-7 days.



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ABSTRACTS ON BLACK HAIR & COMBING DAMAGE:
African hair length: the picture is clearer.
What is normal black African hair? A light and scanning electron-microscopic study.
African hair length in a school population: a clue to disease pathogenesis?
Apparent fragility of African hair is unrelated to the cystine-rich protein distribution: a cytochemical electron microscopic study.

ABSTRACTS ON HAIR BREAKAGE & COMBING:
Hair breakage during combing. III. The effects of bleaching and conditioning on short and long segment breakage by wet and dry combing of tresses.
Hair breakage during combing. IV. Brushing and combing hair.
Hair breakage during combing. I. Pathways of breakage.

Healthy Hairstyling #3: Short Natural Hair

Just because your hair is short doesn't mean you can't fit "healthy hairstyle" and "beautiful" into one sentence. Twists do not have to be boring. Twistouts do not have to look crazy. Play your styles up with a beautiful clip, scarf, or headband. Put a spin on a simple twistout with partial cornrows in the front or a pompadour. Wear protective and low manipulation styles ... but HAVE FUN and FEEL BEAUTIFUL while you're at it! Healthy hairstyling does not have to be bland.

HEALTHY STYLES FOR SHORT NATURAL HAIR:
Twists (protective)
Braids (protective)
Finger coils (protective)
Bantu knots (protective)
Twistouts (low manipulation)
Braidouts (low manipulation)
Coilouts (low manipulation)
Combinations of the above (protective/low manip)
Wigs over braids/twists/cornrows (protective)
Strawsets (low manipulation)
Sew-ins (protective - when properly done and cared for)
Kinky twist / braid extensions (protective - when properly done and cared for)
Etc.

Here are some PHOTOS of protective & low manipulation styles. I did these when my hair was shorter. (Hair length was approximately 4 to 6 inches.)

Healthy Hairstyling #2: The Bun

The ends are the oldest part of the hair, and have consequently experienced the most wear and tear. For those with tresses at or past their shoulders, the ends may undergo further weathering due to friction with clothing, sofas, etc.. Thus, it is critical to find styles that protect and retain moisture in the ends, and what better way to do it than with the timeless bun. Here are some versions of this style (Photos from Essence Magazine) ...

CLASSIC BUN (left) and UNIQUE BUN (right):

MULTI-BUNS:

BUNS on kinky/coily/curly hair:
Depending on the curl pattern of your hair, extra preparation may be required for the bun. Women with curly to coily hair may find it easier to style buns on wet or damp hair. Meanwhile, women with coily to kinky hair may prefer to work with stretched hair (via banding, rollersets, etc.) to combat shrinkage. The method you choose also depends on the density and length of your hair. Learn what works for you! In either case, a little water, conditioner, gel, natural butter, or a combination of these ingredients may be applied to the hair to tame any frizzies. Be sure to moisturize the ends of your hair. Also refrain from applying too much tension. The following are various videos on how to do a bun on natural hair:

HOW TO VIDEOS for natural buns:
CURLY/COILY HAIR: tutorial 1 - damp, tutorial 2 - stretched
COILY/KINKY HAIR: tutorial 1 - stretched, tutorial 2 - stretched
For more videos, check out youtube.

Healthy Hairstyling #1: The Twistout

The twistout is one of many hairstyle options you can do to maintain healthy hair. It requires no heat usage, thus preventing heat damage. It can be worn for days at a time, therefore requiring little mechanical manipulation to our tresses. With the twistout there is no tension on the scalp, and thus no damage to the hair follicle. What's more? It is simply a hot hairstyle for any length of natural or chemically straightened hair!

HOW TO DO A TWISTOUT:
1. Wash and condition the hair as usual.
2. Apply a mixture of butter (e.g., shea, mango, etc.) and gel OR butter and oil. (You can throw in other ingredients, like conditioner, if you like.)
3. Two-strand twist the hair.
4. Reapply butter mixture to the ends of each twist.
5. Allow the hair to air dry fully.
6. Separate each twist into two sections for longer lasting twistouts. (More sections for volume.)
7. Fluff the hair at the roots.

MAINTAINING A TWISTOUT:
The smaller your two-strand twists AND the longer you leave them in, the longer your twistout will last and more defined it will be. The key to maintaining the style is to simply leave the hair alone. The more you fiddle with the hair, the shorter the life of the style. Before you go to bed, put on a silk/satin bonnet to keep the twistout intact. In the morning, simply fluff the twistout with your hands. Re-moisturizing should be kept to a minimum though not at the expense of dry hair. If you must re-moisturize, spritz your hair lightly with your favorite product. Try to stay away from products that contain glycerin, which is a natural humectant and may shorten the duration of your twistout. EDITED TO ADD (Thanks, Jai!): Another way to maintain a twistout is to do about 8 big twists at night and sleep with a satin bonnet/scarf then untwist and fluff in the morning. This will keep the frizzies at bay.

STYLE DURATION:
About 3 to 7 days for naturally curly, coily, and kinky hair.
About 2 to 4 days for chemically straightened hair.

HOW TO VIDEO:
If you are a visual learner, the following videos may help guide you as you try the twistout. I think the lady does a great job perfecting the look. What follows are videos #3 and #5; check out her youtube page for the entire series.

VIDEO #3 (Twisting)
VIDEO #5 (Twistout)

Retaining the Hair You Grow: Chapter 2

Let's talk about chemical damage ...

WHAT IS IT?:
In general, chemical damage of the hair can result from the misuse of chemical treatments, such as relaxers and certain color dyes. Relaxers are designed to straighten the hair by breaking and rearranging bonds in the hair shaft. Misuse of relaxers involves overprocessing (leaving the chemical on the hair for too long), overlapping (applying the chemical to previously relaxed sections), inadequate neutralization of the relaxer, etc. Chemical color treatments -- particularly permanent ones -- lift the cuticle and interact with the cortex of the hair to alter the natural pigment. Misuse of color treatments involves overprocessing and other improper application procedures. Chemical damage leaves the hair severely weakened and irreparable. The damaged part must grow out or be cut.

MINIMIZING COLOR DAMAGE:
*Natural dyes: A sure fire way to prevent chemical damage is to use natural alternatives to chemical treatments. Henna, lemon, honey, cinnamon, and chamomile tea can all be used as natural dyes. Another option is to use plant-based hair dyes on the market, some of which boast salon-quality results. One thing to note: the darker the hair, the subtler the result with natural dyes meant to lighten. Sometimes multiple applications may be required to achieve your desired color. (Please read article links below.)
*Rinses: Rinses are temporary dyes that deposit color onto your hair. They are ideal for those wanting to deepen, rather than lighten, their natural color. The color disappears after a few washes.
*Semi- and Demi -permanent: Semi-permanent colors contain no ammonia and last for a few washes. Demi-permanent colors also contain no ammonia and but slightly lift the cuticle to deposit color. Thus, they last much longer than semi-permanents. The potential for chemical damage with these options is less than with a permanent color.



MINIMIZING RELAXER DAMAGE:
*Stay/go natural: Avoidance of relaxers is the only guaranteed method of preventing relaxer damage. Rollersets or flat ironing the natural hair on a safe heat setting are ways to achieve a temporary straight look.
*Texlaxing/texturizing: This process involves relaxing the hair just enough to loosen the natural curl pattern. The chemical is left on the hair for a shorter period of time than specified so that the hair is not relaxed to full straightness. Thus, this method minimizes the possibility of relaxer damage.
*Jojoba oil, wax, & relaxers: According to one study, most conditioning agents in relaxer kits break down and have no effect by the time the consumer uses them. This finding implies that using some level of added conditioning while relaxing may minimize damage. What is the best conditioner? According to a second study, jojoba oil is amongst the best at protecting the hair while relaxing (with thioglycolate-based relaxers). Polymethylene wax (in conjunction with other substances) is beneficial for the traditional NaOH- and LiOH-based relaxers.
*Don't Overlap or Overprocess: Follow the instructions.

Ultimately, the best way to prevent chemical damage is to avoid chemical treatments altogether. I've only presented a few options so if you do your research you may find more. If you can't avoid chemicals, then merely practice the proper use of them. Follow the application instructions to the tee or seek a professional. It is possible to have healthy colored, straightened hair with or without the use of chemical treatments.

SOURCES & MORE READS:
CHEMICAL DAMAGE & MORE
CONDITIONER BREAKDOWN IN RELAXERS & POLYMETHYLENE WAX
JOJOBA OIL & RELAXERS
BLEACH DAMAGE
CHEMICAL STRAIGHTENING
NATURAL DYE RECIPES
NATURAL DYE INGREDIENTS
HOW HAIR COLORING WORKS
COLOR TREATMENT FACTS
DEMI, SEMI, & PERMANENT COLORS